Kogan-ji in Sugamo

by Simone Ottuzzi - Omotenashi Anime

Kogan-ji (高岩寺), located in the Sugamo district (Toshima, Tokyo), is a Buddhist temple of the Jōdo (Pure Land) school, founded in 1596 in Shinagawa and later relocated to its current site during the Edo period.

It's known as the "temple of longevity" and mainly draws elderly visitors, so much so that Sugamo is affectionately nicknamed "Harajuku for grandmas."

At the heart of worship here is the Togenuki Jizō statue, believed to have miraculous healing powers. According to legend, a 17th-century samurai was cured after swallowing an amulet bearing Jizō's image, making the temple famous for prayers of healing and long life.

Another attraction is the Arai Kannon statue: visitors wash, with water, the body parts corresponding to their own ailments, hoping to find relief.

On the 4th, 14th and 24th of each month, a lively market takes place around the temple, with street food, religious items and red underwear — a symbol of vitality that has become a signature souvenir of the neighborhood. The main street, Jizō-dōri Shopping Street, about 800 meters long, is the beating heart of this atmosphere.

Visiting Kogan-ji is a different experience from Tokyo's more touristy temples: spirituality, tradition and everyday life blend together in an authentic, down-to-earth setting.

In short, Kogan-ji in Sugamo is a place where devotion to Jizō and Kannon blends with neighborhood life, offering a genuine, lively face of Japanese Buddhism.

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